BANFF

Some of the XC trails in this area are subject to avalanche danger. Skiers should refer to printed material as well as getting local expert advice or listen to local media to get up to date avalanche warnings. As some of the trails are remote and do not get much use it is advisable to leave details of your intended route each day with someone eg your hotel manager and in your car.

Banff 1536m. is the largest centre in the Canadian Rockies in an area that extends south from Jasper, along the fabulous Icefields Parkway to Lake Louise, then to Banff and further south to Canmore and on to the vast areas in Kananaskis Country. Banff is the best place to stay to access all these areas except Jasper, which is a days drive away.

Access to Banff is by road from British Columbia or Montana in the USA and roads are sometimes impassable for a few days in winter, or by air to Calgary and then about 1½ hours by bus. The trip from Calgary is interesting over flat plains, then a few hills and suddenly right into the Rockies. The traveller can brush up their French as all road signs are bi lingual and if confused by French labels in the supermarket just turn the package around to read the English version. There are plenty of bus services from Banff to the downhill ski resorts of Lake Louise, Sunshine Village and Norquay but cross country skiers must provide their own transport. Car hire is available at Calgary and Banff and as Banff is in a national park all cars have to pay a park entry fee.

Banff is a world class resort with much to charm the visitor at any time of year. Mountains everywhere, frozen lakes that have people often camping on the ice and fishing in ice holes, hot springs to massage skied out muscles, sleigh rides, dog sledding, skating, snowshoeing, tobogganing plus everything you would expect to find in a skiing or tourist town.

There is plenty of accommodation in Banff so getting a bed is no problem. Lake Louise has less accommodation and more demand so bookings must be made much earlier there. Canmore is 22km east of Banff and had plenty of accommodation and has the Olympic Nordic Centre nearby and once again a car is essential. Additional activities include ice climbing (climbing up frozen waterfalls), mountaineering and avalanche safety courses and guided backcountry ski trips. Snowshoeing is a popular pastime in Canada and allows easier travel in otherwise knee-deep powder snow.

Information centres in Banff and Lake Louise provide maps and booklets with detailed descriptions of Nordic trails in the area. Although snow is usually adequate trails may be icy depending on conditions.  

BANFF:   Within walking distance of Banff there is XC on the golf course and adjacent Spray River and Cave and Basin trails. A local guide book says that skiers occasionally get lost on the golf course!  There are a few more trails within 10 km.

LAKE LOUISE:  Located 57km from Bannf. There are several XC trails that start on the highway between Banff and Lake Louise. A visit to the Chateau at Lake Louise (pictured) is a must, preferably after a day of xc skiing, where you can wander through the hotel and eat in the restaurants with a great view over the frozen lake. There is ice skating in front of the Chateau and elaborate ice sculptures are a feature around the Chateau. The Telemark trail and the Bow Valley Parkway trails start from near the Chateau. The Morraine Lake trail is 8km one way with access from the Chateau either on the Tramline track or the Fairview track. Easy skiing and fabulous views and the hard work uphill is rewarded by a fun ski back with skis flying but easily controlled in the groomed tracks. The Tramline track is a well graded track because it used to be the site of the tramway from the station in the valley up to Lake Louise. More adventurous skiers could ski on the Pipestone trail that starts on the other side of the Bow River from Lake Louise.

Finally, great telemark skiing on the Lake Louise ski slopes; one huge mountain with more runs on the other side of the mountain. It can be very cold there.

  CANMORE:  Located 22km from Banff, Canmore hosted the winter Olympics in 1988 and has hosted Masters World Cup so the terrain is challenging but unfortunately the snow is not always up to standard and is often man made. XC events are scheduled from early December to mid March. It is worth a visit but expecting a week or more of good skiing may be stretching it. There are 70km of trails but many of them will not be groomed, 15km of beginners trails and a spacious day centre with a restaurant.

  KANANASKIS COUNTRY:

This is remote country so few people ski there but facilities are excellent. A mix of groomed trail skiing but with some well marked or described ungroomed trails into rather remote areas. Access is from Canmore by car. The roads are snow covered, but cleared and the magnificent mountain views change at every turn.

  In the Spray Lake area there are extensive groomed trails at Mt Shark. Further on there is a marked but ungroomed trail (pictured) to Chester Lake and the Smith-Dorrien system of trails that is marked but may not be groomed. The Burstall Creek trail is not groomed but offers easy valley skiing. Touring skis recommended and skins may be needed in some areas. The skier will find that many of the trails open up awesome scenery after the car park is left behind.

  About 45km from Canmore there is a prison complex that looks uninviting and also the Kananaskis system of about 80km of ski trails. There is a comfortable visitors information centre with open fire and comfortable lounge chairs and there are six parking areas from where it is possible to access the trails. There is a lodge that caters for disabled and blind skiers. There is no park entry fee, no trail fees, maps are available and 85km of trails are well groomed and signposted. From the Bolton Creek car park the Blueberry Hill trail climbs up to give fabulous views over the Kananaskis lakes. The ski down from the top is a real buzz and the trail then continues on to a point near the BC border before returning in a big loop to the car park. There are signs up warning against feeding the brown bears but they do not appear to be around in the winter. Elk or moose are rarely seen in the wild but elk are often seen grazing in the town parks and in their eagerness to eat are quite oblivious to humans 

  Returning to Banff on a different road one comes to the Kananaskis Village at Ribbon Creek with access to the Nakiska ski mountain. This was a new development for the 1988 winter Olympics and there are about 58km of trails in this area, but not all may be groomed.

  This area can be depended on for good snow as it is at about 1700m. The only detraction is the distance that must be travelled to enjoy it.

JASPER:

Although Jasper is a long way from anywhere it is worth the effort of getting there. Access by road from British Columbia or Banff on the scenic Icefields Parkway. There are airline services to the Hinton airport 80km away and rental cars available. Access possible also by bus and train.

Unless you are staying at the Jasper Park Lodge which has it's own 25km trail network a car is needed to access the trails, Pyramid Bench and Whistlers Campground area are near the town and Athabasca Falls, Beaver Lake and Maligne Lake area (pictured) are within 50km of Jasper. Owing to trail conditions light touring skis are preferred to racing skis. Marmot Basin downhill area offers low priced lift tickets and a variety of groomed and ungroomed slopes for telemarking.  Maligne Canyon contains frozen waterfalls and ice caves and a guided tour with boots and crampons supplied is a highlight of the region.

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